Keratin Smoothing Treatments: 5 Questions to Ask the Salon First

Keratin and other smoothing treatments can tame frizz for months, which is appealing when your hair’s texture changes with age. They’re often among the priciest services on a salon menu. Many of the solutions behind them carry a chemical risk that the name “keratin” doesn’t tell you about. Before you book, here is what federal agencies have found and the questions to ask.

What happens in the chair

Many smoothing solutions contain formaldehyde or related ingredients. When the solution is heated with a blow dryer and flat iron, the formaldehyde is released into the air as a gas.¹ The FDA² notes that the International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified formaldehyde as a human carcinogen.²

People have reported eye irritation, headaches, dizziness, sore throat, cough, wheezing, nausea, chest pain, vomiting and rashes during or after these treatments.¹ Longer-term reports include more headaches, asthma and skin reactions.¹

“Formaldehyde-free” may not mean free of formaldehyde

OSHA, the federal workplace safety agency, warns that even products that don’t list formaldehyde, or that claim to be “formaldehyde free” or “no formaldehyde,” can still expose people to it.³ Formaldehyde can appear on labels under other names:¹³

• Formalin
• Methylene glycol
• Methanal
• Methanediol
• Formaldehyde monohydrate

5 questions to ask before you book

1. “Which product will you use, and can I see the ingredient list and the Safety Data Sheet?” The FDA¹ suggests asking for both.¹ Products sold only to salon professionals may not carry an ingredient list, so the Safety Data Sheet may be your best view of what’s in it.² Look for the names above.
2. “Does it release formaldehyde when heated?” Ask even if the label says formaldehyde-free.³
3. “How is the room ventilated?” The FDA¹ suggests asking about ventilation and whether staff are trained to use the product.¹
4. “Do you offer a smoothing option without formaldehyde or related ingredients?” The FDA¹ suggests asking about alternatives.¹
5. “How long will it last on my hair, and what does the touch-up cost?” Get the full price, including any special shampoo you’ll be told to use afterward.

Who should think twice

If you have asthma or another breathing problem, or react strongly to fumes, talk with your doctor before you book a treatment that may release formaldehyde. The FDA’s¹ list of reported reactions includes wheezing and asthma.¹ If you feel unwell during the service, ask the stylist to stop and step outside for fresh air.

Don’t try the salon version at home

The FDA² discourages consumers from buying or using hair smoothing products containing formaldehyde or related ingredients for home use.²

If you have a reaction

Tell your doctor, and report it to the FDA¹ through MedWatch at 1-800-332-1088 or online.¹

Try: “I’d love smoother hair, but I’d like to know exactly what’s in the product. Can I see the ingredient list and Safety Data Sheet, and do you have a formaldehyde-free option?”

Hair, Everywhere includes a gentle-styling checklist and visit script. Use them to note which products and heat treatments you’ve had, and how your hair and scalp responded. See the book.