Razor Bumps on Darker Skin: Does Laser Hair Removal Help?
HairArticleRazor bumps happen when curly hair grows back into the skin after shaving, and they're most common on darker skin. Laser hair removal studies, mostly run by military dermatologists, cut bumps sharply: from about 7 to 1 in one study, and by 91% in another. Adding a prescription hair-slowing cream sped results up. The trials treated men's necks, though. Here is what they found and what it means for women.
Razor bumps are small, sore bumps that appear after shaving or plucking. The medical name is pseudofolliculitis barbae.
Why they happen
When curly hair is cut short, the sharp tip can curve back and grow into the skin, setting off inflammation.1 That leads to bumps, pus spots and dark marks that can linger.1 Razor bumps are most common in people with skin of color.2 They’re best known on the beard area, but other shaved areas of the body can be affected too.1 Some people develop keloid scars.1
Stopping shaving, or removing the hair follicles, usually stops new bumps.1
What the laser studies found
Several of these studies took place at military medical centers, where shaving rules apply.34
| Study | Who | Result |
|---|---|---|
| 2002 | 37 patients with darker skin, a small patch under the chin3 | Bumps after 90 days: about 1 in treated skin vs 7 in untreated3 |
| 2009 | 22 patients, 5 weekly neck treatments4 | Bumps down 91%, dark marks down 60%; called a “temporary” reduction4 |
| 2012 trial5 | 27 men, laser on both sides of the neck plus eflornithine cream on one side5 | Hair down 99.5% with the cream vs 85% without; faster drop in bumps5 |
The laser used in these studies, an Nd:YAG, is one type used for darker skin.34
The limits: these were small studies of men’s necks, with short follow-up.345 We found no laser trials for razor bumps on women’s chins, legs or bikini lines. A 2023 review says creams are the mainstay, and that laser is a promising long-term option that needs more study.2
What this means for you
- Change how you remove hair first. Stopping close shaving or plucking can stop the cycle.1 See ingrown hairs and razor bumps.
- If bumps keep coming back, ask a dermatologist about prescription creams and laser.
- Choose an experienced provider who treats darker skin; see laser consultation checks.
- Ask about eflornithine, a cream that slows hair growth, alongside laser; see prescribed eflornithine.
Try: “I get painful bumps and dark marks every time I shave my chin, and I have darker skin. Would laser help, and which type is safe for my skin?”
Hair, Everywhere covers this in Chapter 6, “Bumps and Ingrowns,” in a section called “Razor Bumps in Uniform.” It traces how most of what’s known about razor bumps came from military research on men, and what carries over to women. See the book.
This article is for general educational purposes only and is not medical advice. It isn't a substitute for diagnosis or treatment from a qualified healthcare professional who knows your health history. On darker skin, laser hair removal should be done by an experienced clinician using a laser suited to your skin type, as the wrong settings can burn or discolor skin. See a dermatologist for bumps that become painful or pus-filled, dark marks that don't fade, or raised scars. Girl Playbook does not endorse any specific product, test, or provider.
Girl Playbook sells this book. It provides education and worksheets, not individualized medical care.
Sources
The research behind this article, in the order it’s cited. How we source our articles.
- Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (via PubMed Central), 2019Pseudofolliculitis barbae; current treatment options (opens in a new tab)abcdef
- Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (abstract via PubMed), 2023Review of treatments for pseudofolliculitis barbae (opens in a new tab)ab
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2002 study (abstract via PubMed), 2002Treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae in skin types IV, V, and VI with a long-pulsed neodymium:yttrium aluminum garnet laser (opens in a new tab)abcde
- Dermatologic Surgery (abstract via PubMed), 2009Low-fluence 1,064-nm laser hair reduction for pseudofolliculitis barbae in skin types IV, V, and VI (opens in a new tab)abcde
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2012 trial (abstract via PubMed), 2012Topical eflornithine hydrochloride improves the effectiveness of standard laser hair removal for treating pseudofolliculitis barbae: a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial (opens in a new tab)abcd
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