Retinol After 50: 5 Checks Before You Buy Another Serum

Retinol serums sit at every price point, from drugstore tubes to department-store bottles. Unlike many skin care ingredients, retinol has been tested on aging skin in a controlled trial. Here is what that trial found and five checks that help you choose without overpaying.

What the research found in older skin

In a 2007 trial, 36 adults with an average age of 87 had 0.4% retinol lotion put on one arm and a plain lotion without retinol on the other, up to three times a week for 24 weeks. The retinol side had significantly less fine wrinkling. Skin samples from a small subgroup showed more collagen-building activity.¹

That’s encouraging for older skin. Note the details: the trial used one known strength, on the arms, applied by study staff, for nearly six months.¹

Retinol, retinoid: what’s the difference?

Retinoids are a family of vitamin A ingredients. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)² explains that retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid, while prescription retinoids such as tretinoin and tazarotene are stronger. Both kinds can help with fine lines, wrinkles and uneven color.²

5 checks before you buy

1. Is the strength listed? The trial used 0.4% retinol.¹ Some products list retinol in the ingredients without a percentage. If the label or the seller won’t tell you how much is in it, you can’t compare it with the research or with a cheaper bottle.

2. Can you start gently? The AAD advises using the least intense retinoid you can find, every other night at first, and building up slowly, with moisturizer.² A high-strength bottle bought to “get results faster” may irritate your skin enough that you stop using it.

3. Will you wear sunscreen every day? Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, and the AAD advises daily sunscreen while using them.² If daily sunscreen isn’t part of your routine, start there.

4. Is retinol right for your skin? The AAD notes that retinoids can irritate, can cause dark spots in darker skin tones, and may not suit people with significant rosacea, allergies or very dry skin.² Ask a dermatologist first if any of these apply.

5. Would a prescription make more sense? If you’re spending a lot on serums, ask whether a prescription retinoid would suit your skin better. The AAD notes prescription retinoids are stronger.² Ask what it would cost with your insurance or a pharmacy discount program.

Give it time and track it

The trial measured results at 24 weeks.¹ Take a photo in the same light before you start and once a month, and judge the bottle after several months, not several days.

Try: “I’m using a retinol serum for fine lines. Is this a sensible strength for my skin, and would a prescription retinoid make more sense?”

Skin, Head to Toe includes a short-shelf planner and a 12-week SkinLog. Use them to keep your routine short and record how your skin responds as you build up. See the book.