Bakuchiol vs Retinol: The 2019 Comparison Trial

FDA¹ explains that cosmetics do not receive its premarket approval, apart from certain color additives. Companies remain responsible for safe, properly labeled products. A cosmetic’s presence on a US shelf therefore does not show that FDA verified its wrinkle claims.¹

Two application schedules

Researchers randomized 44 adults, 41 women, aged 31–56: 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily versus 0.5% retinol nightly for 12 weeks. The vehicle was the same; the schedules differed.²

Wrinkles on photographs

Image-measured fine-wrinkle surface area fell 19.0% with bakuchiol and 23.2% with retinol from baseline. These are changes in a photographic measure, not percentages of people helped. No between-group difference was significant. A power calculation targeting a 20% difference did not establish an equivalence margin. Retinol produced more scaling and week-four stinging.²

Reporting limits and newer evidence

Seven dropped out. Authors said all 44 were analyzed but did not explain missing-data imputation; registry flow instead lists zero dropouts. UC Davis funded; an author disclosed commercial consulting. Pregnancy and breastfeeding were excluded, so this trial cannot establish safety in those circumstances.²³

A separate June 2026 study randomized 73 Chinese adults to 0.5% bakuchiol or its vehicle twice daily for 84 days; two were lost to follow-up. Clinician-graded global wrinkles favored bakuchiol over vehicle at day 84, P=.023. Multiple cosmetic outcomes were examined without a stated multiplicity adjustment or effect confidence intervals. Sytheon, now Hallstar, funded the study; authors had commercial affiliations and consulting ties. It had no retinol arm and cannot establish equivalence to retinol.⁴

Before changing a routine

Retinol is available over the counter; the American Academy of Dermatology⁵ distinguishes it from prescription retinoids such as tretinoin. The academy advises starting retinoids gently, using moisturizer and daytime sun protection, and avoiding retinoids during pregnancy. It recommends dermatologist advice for substantial redness, inflammation, allergies or dryness.⁵

For sunscreen, its anti-aging product guidance specifies broad-spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance, with reapplication every two hours outdoors. Adding a cosmetic active does not remove that step.⁶

Bring the exact product name, concentration, instructions and a list of other products you use. Ask which change you would monitor, how to respond to irritation and whether a simpler routine would answer the same concern. Our retinol buying checks cover the broader product discussion.

Skin, Head to Toe includes “Your Shelf” and “The Words on the Bottle.” It pairs a short routine with one new active at a time, a small-area test and attention to known triggers on ingredient lists. Use that preparation to record exactly what changed if a product irritates your skin.