At-Home Glycolic Peels and AHA Products: Strength, pH and the Sunburn Alert

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), most often glycolic and lactic acid, show up in toners, pads, serums and “at-home peels” sold to smooth fine lines and even out skin tone. They work by making the top layer of skin shed. Here is what the FDA¹ says about using them safely after 50.

How they work, and why strength matters

AHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface. How much depends on the type and concentration of the acid, the product’s pH (how acidic it is), and the other ingredients.¹

An industry safety panel, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, concluded from industry-sponsored studies that glycolic and lactic acid products are safe for consumers when:¹

• The AHA concentration is 10% or less
• The product’s pH is 3.5 or higher
• The product protects against sun sensitivity, or its directions tell you to use daily sun protection

Stronger products, sometimes sold as “skin peelers,” may contain much higher concentrations of acid and are designed to remove the outer layer of skin.¹

The sunburn effect

FDA¹ studies found that after four weeks of using an AHA cream, volunteers’ skin reddened from UV light 18% more easily, and UV-related cell damage roughly doubled on average, with wide differences between people. The good news: the extra sensitivity faded within about a week of stopping.¹

That’s why the FDA¹ recommends a “Sunburn Alert” on AHA cosmetics, advising sunscreen, protective clothing and limited sun exposure while using the product and for a week afterward.¹

Reported problems

Between 1992 and early 2004, the FDA¹ received 114 reports of skin problems linked to AHA products, including burning, rashes, swelling, color changes, blisters and chemical burns. The more serious reactions happened most often with products that exfoliate the most, such as skin peelers.¹

Choosing and using an AHA product

1. Check the label for the AHA type and, if listed, the percentage. Start with a lower-strength product.
2. Read the warnings and follow the directions carefully.¹
3. Use sunscreen daily while using it and for a week after you stop.¹ Our guide to choosing sunscreen can help.
4. Don’t stack exfoliants. Using an AHA alongside a retinoid, a face razor or scrubs can irritate skin. See our articles on retinol and at-home dermaplaning.
5. Be wary of strong treatment claims. Products sold to treat acne, remove scars or lighten discolorations are drugs under the law, not cosmetics.¹

When to see a dermatologist

For deeper wrinkles, sun damage or dark spots, a dermatologist can discuss in-office peels or prescription treatments with more predictable strength and supervision. Stop and get checked if a product causes burning, blistering or color changes.

Try: “I’d like to try an at-home glycolic peel for my uneven skin tone. What strength is safe for my skin, and can I use it with my retinol?”

Skin, Head to Toe includes a short-shelf planner and a 12-week SkinLog. Use them to add one product at a time and track how your skin responds. See the book.