Dandruff Shampoo: How to Choose an Active Ingredient and Use It Right
HairArticleDandruff shampoos differ by active ingredient: zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur or coal tar. Dermatologists suggest rotating if one stops working, letting it sit on the scalp, and adjusting for curly, color-treated or thinning hair.
In this article
Flakes on dark clothes and an itchy scalp send many women to the shampoo aisle, where every bottle claims to fix dandruff. The difference is in the active ingredient. Here is what dermatologists suggest.
The main active ingredients
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)1 suggests looking for one of these:1
- Zinc pyrithione
- Selenium sulfide
- Ketoconazole
- Salicylic acid
- Sulfur
- Coal tar
If one shampoo stops working, the AAD suggests alternating with one that has a different active ingredient.1
How to use it
- Lather it onto your scalp, not just your hair.1
- Leave it on for up to 5 to 10 minutes if the label says so.1
- Follow up with your usual shampoo and conditioner if your hair needs it.1
Match it to your hair
- Fine, straight hair or an oily scalp: you may need to wash daily and use the dandruff shampoo about twice a week.1
- Coarse, curly or coily hair: use it about once a week if tolerated, applied only to the scalp, because the ingredients can dry hair.1
- Color-treated or permed hair: a selenium sulfide label advises rinsing thoroughly.2 Our guide to tar shampoo and light hair discoloration covers another color concern for gray and blonde hair.
Protect a thinning scalp
Coal tar can make the scalp more sensitive to the sun, and sunburn can increase flaking. The AAD suggests hats, shade and a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher on the scalp if your hair is thinning.1 Our article on scalp sun protection explains how.
When to see a dermatologist
If flakes don’t improve after regular use, see a dermatologist.12 Flaking can come from seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, fungal infection or eczema, and a dermatologist can prescribe stronger treatment.1 Our guide to an itchy, flaky scalp explains the differences.
Try: “I’ve used a zinc dandruff shampoo for two months and I’m still flaking and itchy. Could this be seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis, and what should I try next?”
Hair, Everywhere includes a Hair Check, a monthly Hair Log and a visit script. Use them to track which shampoos you’ve tried and how your scalp responded. See the book.
This article is for general educational purposes only and is not medical advice. It isn't a substitute for diagnosis or treatment from a qualified healthcare professional who knows your health history. Please don't ignore professional advice or delay getting care because of something you read here. Thick scaly patches, scalp pain, oozing, hair loss with scaling, or a rash that spreads to the face or body should be checked by a dermatologist. If you think you may be having a medical emergency, call 911 or your local emergency number right away. This article discusses categories of products and published guidance. It does not evaluate any particular brand or product. Girl Playbook does not endorse any specific product, test, or provider.
Girl Playbook sells this book. It provides education and worksheets, not individualized medical care.
Sources
The research behind this article, in the order it’s cited. How we source our articles.
- American Academy of Dermatology, 2023How to treat dandruff (opens in a new tab)abcdefghijk
- DailyMed, National Library of MedicineSelenium sulfide 1% shampoo: Drug Facts (opens in a new tab)ab
Spotted something out of date? Tell us and we’ll check it.
